This is our last little section on "What's Dangerous and What's Not Around Your Vehicle".  This is part of the training we've provided for car and Volvo novices for years.  Hopefully you're learning something new!

 6. Cars Blowing Up - It is very rare for cars to blow up.  Cars can blow up after rolling off a cliff, but if you're driven off a steep cliff, you are already in trouble--ha!  Cars can catch on fire (usually due to electrical problems), but even then, it is highly unlikely your car will blow up.  The expression "blowing a head gasket" means the gasket (seal) between the top half and the bottom half of the engine fails, allowing air and/or coolant to leak into the engine cylinders.  A blown head gasket will cause a car to run rough and lose power, and you may see billowing clouds of white smoke at the tailpipe.  It sounds dramatic, but nothing actually "blows up."

 7. Fire - To be on the safe side, never keep gasoline in a container in your car--even in the trunk--because gasoline fumes can ignite very easily.  Electrical fires do occur in cars, although it's not common.  If you do suspect there is a fire in the engine compartment, do not open the hood!  Opening the hood will only give the fire oxygen and make it burn faster.  Turn off the engine immediately, unlatch the hood from inside the car (so when the fire department comes, they can open the hood easily), but keep the hood closed.  Move away from the car and call the fire department.

 Scary stuff......but honestly, people go their whole lives as drivers and never see any of this kind of thing.  BUT, it is important to know how to react in any one of these predicatments.

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4. Electrical Battery Safety - Batteries are dangerous if you "arc" or make sparks because the sparks can start a fire.  The electricity from the battery itself is not enough to hurt you, although if you arc the battery, you will probably jump back and bang your head on the hood, which will hurt.....A LOT!  Electricity needs a circuit, or circle flow.  You will arc the battery if you complete the electrical circuit by touching the positive battery post to the negative battery post. (battery posts are the 2 small round metal parts that protrude from the top of the battery) This is why the positive battery post generally has a rubber or plastic cap over it.  You can also arc the battery by touching the positive post to any other metal part of the engine or frame.

 5. Under the Car, Jack Safety - Only us the jack that comes with your car for changing tires, never get underneath a car that is supported only by a tire-changing jack.  Also, it is a very good idea to "chock" the wheels.....basically, put a brick or piece of wood or something behind both back wheels to keep the vehicle from rocking, as an extra percaution.

 We have a couple more safety tips to post in this little sub-series.  We hope you are getting some cool tips from us.  Feel free to look at our blog history for other car-care information.

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1. Tie back long hair and any dangling clothing or jewelry as they could get caught in the fan or belts. (Some fans come on even when the ignition is off).

2. Cooling system - Never take the radiator cap off when the engine is hot.  The radiator is pressurized, and the coolant could spray out and scald you.  When the car is hot and you must add coolant to the radiator, you can add coolant to the plastic reservoir/overflow tank.  If you must add coolant to the radiator when the engine is warm, use a few rags between your hand and the radiator cap.  Open it slowly, as if you were opening a bottle of pop that someone had shaken up.  If you have a German car (VW, Audi, etc.) or a Volvo, the plastic overflow tank is also under pressure, so take special care when adding coolant.

3. Exhaust System - The exhaust system on your car is very hot.  If you are unsure as to whether something is too hot, check the air temperature a few inches away before touching it with your hand.  Don't run your car in an enclosed area or garage, as carbon monoxide is odorless and poisonous and can kill you if you breathe enough of it.

(More tips to come! Stay tuned and check back for the next post.)

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If you've stumbled upon this blog (or come here deliberately), you can see that we post every so often on some sort of car tip or maintenance.  We understand that you probably don't come here all of the time, but if you look at our past posts, you can see there is plenty of wisdom that can help you with maintaining your Volvo.

The underlying principle of our business is that we become someone you can trust when it comes to your vehicle.  Regular maintenance is FAR LESS costly than waiting until something breaks to bring your car in.  Anything that we put in these blogs or anywhere on our site, we are happy to do FOR YOU. 

When you bring your car to us, we look to find ANYTHING that could run more optimally and we make those suggestions to you.  NO scare tactics, but also, NO avoiding the issues.  We focus on Volvos, of course, and we are glad that Volvo owners tend to value their vehicle and car care a little more than the average car owner.  Our hope is that by putting out some helpful car tips and lessons, you will feel more and more comfortable leaving your vehicle with us for the big or small needs that you may have with your Volvo.

Remember, that Regular Maintenance and Preventative Care are the most important things for your Volvo and its longevity.  Whether you can take care of some of these things or not, it's important to us that people understand that the old saying "a stitch in time, saves nine" DOES hold true.

Take a look over our blog history.  See if there is anything of assistance to you, and if you have ANY needs at all, feel free to call or email us.  We are ALWAYS glad to help.  Thanks for reading!!!

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Clutch Fluid, what's that???  There is really no such thing.  Cars with manual transmissions either have a clutch cable (don't use any fluid) or a hydraulic clutch system.  If a car has two reservoirs that look alike, one is the brake reservoir, the other is the clutch reservoir.  The clutch reservoir (clutch master cylinder) is located near the brake fluid reservoir.  Follow the clutch pedal straight through.

So, that's kinda all we got for the car fluids.  Feel free to our "Ask Dr. Volvo" page to get any more information on the subject.  What's next for our blog???  Who knows???  Stay tuned!!!

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To check the level of the power steering fluid, you should NOT let the engine run.  With the parking break set, place the transmission in either PARK or NUETERAL basic procedures for checking the level of the power steering fluid are as follows: unscrew and remove the cap to the power steering resevour.  The cap will normally have a dipstick attached.

Wipe off the dipstick and reinstall the cap. Remove the cap and inspect the level of fluid on the dipstick.  Most dipsticks will have HOT and COLD markings.  Make sure you read the correct marking on the dipstick.  Note: the fluid level will rise on the dipstick as the steering system warms.

If required, only add enough fluid to reach the correct mark on the dipstick.  Automatic transmission fluid is commonly used in a power steering system.  Some power steering systems, however, do NOT use automatic transmission fluid and instead require a special power steering fluid.  Always refer to the manufactorers service for the correct type of fluid for your system.  CAUTION: Do NOT overflow the system; overfilling will call fluid to spay out of the top of the resevour and onto the engine and other components.

As for the power steering hoses and belt, always inspect the condition of these carefully.  The hoses are exposed to tremendous pressures.  If a hose ruptures, a sudden and dangerous loss of power-assist occurs.  Make sure that the hose is not rubbing on moving or hot components; this can cause hose failure. 

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Most motorists don't know that brake fluid wears out over time.  They assume it is a lifetime fluid that never needs to be changed, so brake fluid is probably the most neglected fluid in vehicles today.  As brake fluid ages, the corrosion-inhibiting additives in it break down.  The earliest signs of chemical decomposition can often be detected within a year or so, or after 10k-12k miles of normal driving.  Hard use elevates brake temperatures and pressures and can increase the rate at which those fluid additives break down. 

We can check the contamination level of your brake fluid for you.  We will use a fluid analysis by stimulation of contamination alpha reactions known FASCAR.  If your car's brake fluid has a rating of 75 or higher, it is highly-recommended you change it.  One of the purposes of changing fluids when recommended is to alleviate more costly damage.  In the case of brake systems, we want to protect against hydraulic system corrosion.  A rating of 75 or higher shows the car's break fluid has lost its ability to fight hydraulic system corrosion.  This corrosion can pit the metal bores of the brake master cylinder, slave cylinders, and anti-lock break system (ABS) components.  This means that pistons can't move freely, seals can be damaged and cylinders can develop internal or external leaks. 

As you can see, a thorough break fluid flush and fill seems like cheap insurance when things like an electro-hydraulic control unit (RHCU) can cost over $900.  You will find that you need a break fluid flush about every two years or 24k miles.  Most vehicles built since the mid 1990s have anti-lock break systems.  Checking the fluid level in most ABS master cylinders is the same as checking fluid in a non-ABS reservoir.  Some ABS installations draw fluid from the reservoir and store it in a high pressure hydraulic accumulator, however.  This may cause the fluid level to appear low at certain times when the system is in fact properly filled.  

Feel free to ask us to run this check, if we haven’t already.  Mainly we want to show you that when we recommend a flush and fill, you as the car’s owner, understand just how vital a move like that can be, and that it is somehow unnecessary.  Preventative Maintenance is the best policy, as you can see, with any of your car’s fluids.

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Radiator fluid, or coolant, is the most important part of your car's cooling system, which protects your engine from overheating.  Low coolant can lead to a breakdown and expensive repairs.  Always keep the coolant level full.  Low coolant level causes engine overheating.

How to check the engine fluid level:

Check the level of coolant or antifreeze only when the engine is cold.  The coolant level should be between "LOW" and "FULL" marks in the coolant overflow tank.  If it's lower, you should top it up.  If there is no coolant in the overflow tank at all, you should add the coolant into the radiator also.  But, remember: Never open the radiator cap when the engine is hot! 

Check the coolant strength with a coolant test strip. The strips change color to indicate how much life is left in the coolant.  IF the coolant is brown or rust-colored, you may need a radiator flush and refill.

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Park your car on a level surface.  Start the engine.  Set the transmission level to the "P" (Parking) position, and let the engine idle (on some cars this process may differ, check the owner's manual for details). Pull the transmission dipstick and dry it with a lint-free clean rag or tissue.  Then, set it back carefully all the way down into its place.  Pull the dipstick again and check the fluid level.  If the engine is cool, it should be at the upper end of the "cold" mark.  If the engine is hot, the level should be at the upper end of the "hot" mark.  If it reads lower than these respective marks, you should add some automatic transmission fluid. 

 Check the fluid condition also.  If it is too black and has a burnt smell, then your transmission is not going to last.  Normally, it should be clean and transparent. Its color may vary from red to brown.  Wipe the dipstick with clean white paper and look at the paper.  There should be no black deposits, not medal partials, and no dirt left on the paper. 

 This is how to add the transmission fluid: Check the transmission fluid type in the owners manual.  For example, some Chrysler transmissions need only a specific type of fluid and regular fluid, like Dexron 3, can even destroy the transmission. Add a little amount of fluid and wait for a minute to let the fluid flow down.  Start the engine then check the level again. Add more fluid in small amounts as needed.

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Oil lubricates, cleans and cools the engine and is the lifeblood of your engine. Keep the engine oil level full, and change the oil and oil filter regularly.  Use only quality brand products of appropriate oil type (check the oil type in your owner's manual) and use a genuine oil filter.

 When changing your oil, always park your car at a level place. Stop the engine. Wait for a couple of minutes to let the engine oil pour down to the oil pan.  Pull the engine oil dipstick. Dry it with a clean rag or tissue. Then set it back all the way down into its place. Now, pull the dipstick again and check the oil level. Normally, it should be at a "FULL" mark. 

Check the oil condition also: if it's black, it's time to change it.  If it's slightly brown it's okay.  If it's dark brown, but still transparent, it's admissible but better to change it. If the oil is white (coffee with milk color) it means the engine coolant is mixing with the engine oil because of some internal engine problem (for example, a blown head gasket).  In this case have your car inspected.

Here's how to add the engine oil: It would be better to add the same type and branch of the engine oil as you already have in the engine.  For example, if you have Chevron SAE 5W-30, SG in your engine, try to fine the same. Wait for a minute to let the oil pour down. Check the oil level again with the dipstick. If it's still low, add some more. But, done overfill it, and don't forget to set the dipstick back and close the oil filter cap when you finish. 

REMEMBER: The easiest way to extend the life of your car is by changing your oil every 3,000 miles.

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As you know, gasoline is the fuel that makes your car run.  After filling up with gas at the gas station (We recommend quality gasoline---see the car manual for octane rating to be used to avoid harmful pinging), your gas is stored in the gas tank at the back of the car.  The fuel pump moves the gasoline to the engine (We recommend keeping at least a quarter tank of gas to cool the electrical fuel pump components, to help maximize the life of the fuel pump).

On the trip from your gas tank to the engine, the gas gets filtered.  First by the fuel pump's strainer (sock), then by the fuel filter, which should be changed once a year on carbureted cars, and on fuel injected cars, change it every two years or 24,000 miles.  A restricted fuel filter can also shorten the useful life of a fuel pump.  Either the carburetor or fuel injection system mix the gas with air and deliver it to the engine's cylinders.  Inside the cylinders, and electric spark ignites the air/fuel mixture and--VROOOOM!--the heat energy from the burning gasoline makes the car go.  Also, calculate your gas mileage periodically.  Some problems won't show up as a drivability issue.  If you never calculate the gas mileage, you may be spending more than you need to on gas.

In my next post I will continue on with tips on your Engine Oil.  We really hope that by going through the very basic principles of how cars are meant to work, and how they use these vital fluids, you will feel more responsible and wise as a car owner and driver.

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So, I'd like to go through, in the next few posts, the subject of checking your car fluids.  You should know how often to check, what to look for, why each type of fluid is important to your car's health, and what you need to do to keep up with each of these fluids.

You should check your car's fluids at least every other time you fill your gas tank, and definitely before you go on a drive of any length.  Once you become adept at this series of checks it will take less than 5 minutes.  It's also a great way to keep tabs on the health of you car's vital systems.  You can catch problems before they become severe enough to leave you stranded.

Some important things you need to know before we start going through each individual fluid (We'll start with the first fluid in the next posting):

- It's not normal for a car's fluid to be low.  It's a closed system and if everything is sealed properly, the fluids don't get used up (except gas, of course).

- Low fluid level is the sign something is wrong. The exceptions are brake and windshield washer fluid.

- Over time, as the brakes wear, the brake fluid will lower slowly.  This is normal.

- Now if you have to add brake fluid every few weeks, it means there is a leak--Get the brakes checked right away!

- Windshield washer fluid needs replenishing as it's used.

- There are eleven possible fluids depending on the model of car you own.

We'll begin by talking about Gasoline as the first fluid, in the next blog post.

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At All Vovo, we tend to get a lot of questions about how to generally keep your car running well.  So often, customers don't know who to trust, about how often a certain service should be done, or what's "normal" practice for keeping up things like your belts, hoses, or transmission.  Here's a "Greatest Hits" list of what you should know, and what truly are the most important tips of all.  This is the straight info.  Of course, we can offer many services that have to do with these areas of car care, but mostly we feel it's important that people have a full understanding of what proper car care is.

- When you approach you vehicle, get in the habit of looking at your tires.

- Change your oil every 3,000 miles.

- Have belts and hoses inspected twice a year.

- Rotate and balance your tires every 7,000 miles and inspect tread depth.

- We recommend buying "Road Hazard Coverage" when you purchase new tires.

- Align your vehicle twice a year.

- Change your transmission fluid every 25,000 to 30,000 miles.

- Timing belts need to be changed anywhere from 60,000 to 90,000 miles.

- When you purchase a used vehicle, have a reputable shop (All Vovo, for instance) check the car out BEFORE you make the purchase.  Also, buy the extended warranty.

Maintenance schedules are SO important to having long lasting vehicles.  If you need some consultation on your vehicle at any time, please feel free to give us a call at 206-789-0736.

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Okay, so here's the final fuel economy tip. 

Cut down on the amount of driving that you do.

Think about it. How often can you put a little more effort into planning ahead and combining trips?  figure out the best route to cover several errands in one trip.  Or, better yet, try another option if possible: walk, ride your bike, ride the bus, car pool, or just don't go!  Pretty simple stuff, but I really have to tell you, when you drive less, you see the gas stations and repair stations less, and this will save you money in the long run.

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If you are a "lead foot", this is bad news for you.  You may have heard that the new fuel injection systems are so fuel-efficient that the new cars "sip" gas.  This is only true if you drive the vehicle conservatively and accelerate lightly from stop signs.  If you are like 80% of us, this is just not realistic.  And, if you are that guy that has a hard time realizing that this is not a NASCAR race, then your fuel economy gets even worse. 

You see, when you accelerate and really put the accelerator down, the fuel injection system makes power a priority, and fuel economy takes a back seat.  The happy medium is to plan ahead and allow yourself more travel time to get to where you want to go and enjoy more of the drive, rather than just rushing back and forth.  It may seem corny, but once you start to drive more conservatively, your gas mileage will go UP and your stress level will go down.

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Make sure you service the Fuel Injection system at least every 30,000 miles.

I know that most of the manufacturers are now claiming that their vehicle can go 100,000 miles before its first tune-up.  In my opinion and from past experience, I feel that this is way too long to extend service.  In military terms where the equipment has to be "mission ready", the vehicle must be regularly serviced and inspected consistently.  This allows them to spot potentially disastrous breakdowns from occurring.  With a fuel injection system, when a component, such as an oxygen sensor, is starting to fail or deteriorate, the fuel economy can be drastically decreased.  It is much cheaper to maintain a clean fuel injection system, than it is to replace expensive fuel injection parts.

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Tip #2: Keep your vehicle "basics" properly tuned and maintained

Believe it or not, under all those shiny plastic parts, wires, and expensive electronic stuff is a motor that still needs the basics.  These basics are good fuel flow, spark, and airflow.  A dirty air filter, or worn out tune-up parts will wreak havoc with your fuel economy.  It can even lead you toward an "involuntarily" ride to the shop on the back of a tow truck one day.  I can't tell you how many expensive fuel pumps we have replaced due to a restricted $30 to $45 fuel filter that should have been changed with a "scheduled service."

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I can't emphasize enough the importance of maintaince. A car is the second most expensive purchase you make during your life. In fact, many cars now cost as much as some homes did in the not so distant past. So why not take care of your car, right? Probably the most important thing to do is changing your fluids. Engine oil being the most frequent. I still recommend every 3 months or three thousand miles. I know dealers and some car advisors say longer intervals up to ten thousand miles are fine but I fail to see any reason for this other than you may need to buy another car sooner (not cost effective). 

Just when looking at an engine that has regular changes one can see that the seals are better, crank case ventilation system does not plug up as fast, lifters don't stick, etc. What this means to you is you will not have to do expensive repairs early on in your cars life. Seals will last two to three times longer. It will also curb potential expensive engine repairs due to plugged up oil passage ways and general sludged-up internal moving engine parts. What about Synthetic oil, you ask? Its better protection while its in there but it doesn't really increase the oil change interval. In fact synthetic oil cleans better and therefore gets dirty much faster. An oil change is about the cheapest thing you can do for your car. (unless you own a later model Astin Martin) So, why skimp on that? It will save you lots of money in repairs. Other fluids-- Transmission, brake, antifreeze and various rear end and transfer case oils--should be changed every 2 years. I recommend flushing the transmission fluid every 20,000 miles on Volvoes. It beats replacing the transmission to the tune of $5,000.00 at 65,000 to 85,000 miles.

Bottom line: change your fluids!  It will save you money.

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As most of you already know, just about everything in today's cars is computer controlled.  The computer takes all the information from the many "sensors" located on the motor and then makes a "calculation" on how much fuel to give the motor.  Even with the "Complex" Fuel Injection system, the basics of the cars of "yesterday" apply now, just as they did on the very first cars.

I'd like to blog some of these important tips here.  So, here's TIP #1 for improving your gas mileage:

1) Check your vehicle's tire pressure often (at least once a month).

Yes, it is that simple.  Remember as a kid trying to push a bike with low tire pressure?  Now, think of your 3000 lbs. car with low tire pressure! You can check your owner's manual for the correct settings (If you do not have an owner's manual, I highly suggest you get one just just because there really is some great information in it that you may need in the future, like how to change a flat tire, etc).  Also, remember that most service places, including All Vovo, will check and adjust your tire pressure with an oil change if you do not want to mess with it.

So, that was TIP #1 for improving your gas mileage.  Stay tuned to this blog for the next valuable tip!

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Welcome to our brand new blog!  Hopefully, we will be able to share some interesting and informative views and insights into the world of Volvo.  One way to get what you want out of this blog is to go to the "Ask Dr. Volvo" page and send us a question.  We can then post the question and answer here for all to see.  Sound good?  Great!  Follow our RSS feed and keep updated when we post.

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